Mrs. Lincoln's Dressmaker: A Novel

4.2 out of 5

6,460 global ratings

The New York Times bestselling author of Mrs. Lincoln's Sisters and Canary Girls unveils the private lives of President Abraham Lincoln and his wife, Mary Todd Lincoln, through the eyes of the First Lady’s most trusted confidante and friend in this compelling historical novel.

In a life that spanned nearly a century and witnessed some of the most momentous events in American history, Elizabeth Hobbs Keckley was born a slave. A gifted seamstress, she earned her freedom by the skill of her needle, and won the friendship of First Lady Mary Todd Lincoln by her devotion.

A sweeping historical novel, Mrs. Lincoln’s Dressmaker illuminates the extraordinary relationship the two women shared, beginning in the hallowed halls of the White House during the trials of the Civil War and enduring almost, but not quite, to the end of Mrs. Lincoln’s days.

384 pages,

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First published September 23, 2013

ISBN 9780142180358


About the authors

Jennifer Chiaverini

Jennifer Chiaverini

Jennifer Chiaverini is the New York Times bestselling author of FATES AND TRAITORS, MRS. LINCOLN'S DRESSMAKER, MRS. LINCOLN'S RIVAL, THE SPYMISTRESS, MRS. GRANT AND MADAME JULE, and other acclaimed historical novels. She also wrote the beloved Elm Creek Quilts series, as well as six collections of quilt patterns inspired by her books. A graduate of the University of Notre Dame and the University of Chicago, she lives with her husband and two sons in Madison, Wisconsin. About her historical fiction, the Milwaukee Journal Sentinel writes, "In addition to simply being fascinating stories, these novels go a long way in capturing the texture of life for women, rich and poor, black and white, in those perilous years."

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Reviews

Gayle Perry

Gayle Perry

5

Civil war and slaves.

Reviewed in the United States on April 1, 2024

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Reading now very fascinating during civil war and the Lincoln family and the dressmaker. She was exceptionally talented and very caring person.

Author Kelly Jean Whitaker

Author Kelly Jean Whitaker

5

Excellent

Reviewed in the United States on February 2, 2022

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I'm listening to Mrs Lincoln's Dressmaker - an historical fiction book about Elizabeth Kackley (a colored woman who bought her freedom before Lincoln became president). It provides a first-person experience of DC when the civil war broke out. The politics, prejudice, violence, and immigration back then puts into perspective what we've experienced in the past few years. (I thank God that we have been spared that extent of heartache and consternation). Due to my own experience, it was easy to see that owning the black race was all about wealth and nothing to do with rights or doing what was right, much like what we are living through today, albeit a much watered down version.

When I began listening to it, I wanted a break from all things politic so I nearly turned it off. But it was too engaging and now I look forward to the coming chapters. As a seamstress and quilter myself, I would prefer to know more about Elizabeth's career than about Lincoln's struggle, but it's an excellent book.

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J. J. McInerney

J. J. McInerney

5

Stitches in Time

Reviewed in the United States on February 7, 2013

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This is a remarkable novel written about a remarkable woman by a remarkable author. Elizabeth Hobbs Keckley was a staunch, stalwart ex-slave who by virture of her great sewing skills rose to prominance as the modiste (dressmaker) to Mary Todd Lincoln sharing her life and confidences during our Lincoln/Civil War years.

This was, for me, a fascinating and enlightening read. Mrs. Lincoln, through Keckley's eyes via the knowledgeable Chiaverini was not the maligned "mad" widow of Abraham Lincoln, but a much villified, misunderstood, grief-sticken woman who fought for her dignity despite the ill fortunes of disease that descimated three of her sons and the selfishness of assasins, the misunderstandings of "bad" press, and the betrayals of so-called friends..and did it all with the help of Keckley, her most cherished friend during her White House years.

Chiaverini depicts both women as real, not fictious, characters in this historical, cum documentary novel. It is a great read and is an even better literary experience when coupled with Keckley's own work,

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5 people found this helpful

Ethel F.

Ethel F.

5

A Rivalry Not To Be Missed

Reviewed in the United States on November 16, 2017

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This book gives you a "behind the scenes" of what politics were all about during Abraham Lincoln's administration. It also emphasizes the ambitions of the politicians not just their's but family members as well. Kate Chase the daughter of Salmon Chase certainly was ambitious for her father, and for herself as well. As a poised young woman she was her father's right-hand person, and in lieu of a wife (Kate's deceased mother), she was also his hostess both in Ohio and Washington D.C. The rivalry between Mrs. Lincoln and Ms. Chase, also stemmed from jealousy, in view of the fact that Kate believed that it was her father rather than Lincoln who would and should be the next President of the United States in 1861. But also Mrs. Lincoln was not a forgiving women whenever she felt slighted and Kate was known as "The Belle of Washington" a dazzling and beautiful hostess. Reading this book gives us a glimpse of politics during the Civil War years (I've learned more reading this than I did in school). However, certainly nothing has changed over the years, because "as more things change the more they stay the same." Politics then is similar to politics now. This book also shared the private life of Kate Chase, her marriage to William Sprague, an abusive and contentious one at that. Sad to read that such an intelligent women could actually let herself become the wife of an alcoholic and womanizer.

For those who love history with a degree of fiction, this book is one I would recommend.

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5 people found this helpful

Katinka

Katinka

4

Mom Kat Reads

Reviewed in the United States on October 6, 2017

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I very much enjoyed reading this novel. It gives a very enlightening look at life in Washington, D.C. from shortly before Abraham Lincoln takes office and continues on for many years after his assassination. The story is told from the perspective of Elizabeth Keckley, a seamstress who was born into slavery but who had managed to purchase both her and her son’s freedom.

Elizabeth is a very talented and much sought after dressmaker who is brought to the attention of the newly-elected president’s wife Mary. She is hired to modify an older gown for Mrs. Lincoln to wear at the inaugural ball. Elizabeth understands that this is a test of her abilities before being offered the much sought after position as the First Lady’s Modiste. It is not long after that before a number of government officials return to their homes in the southern states and talk of secession begins.

During all of this time, we are given an inside look at life in the White House from the perspective of Mrs. Lincoln’s dressmaker. She is a hard worker and over the years becomes a good friend and confidant to Mary Lincoln and her family. She is there to see the good times and the tough times. We see Mr. Lincoln begining by trying to hold the United States together, and then through the more difficult times with a number of states voting to secede and form their own government, thus starting the civil war.

As this book is told from the perspective of a black woman, while there is mention of the battles that are fought during the war, we are not overwhelmed with combat tactics or the horrific results of many of those battles. Victories and losses are mentioned, but not described in great detail.

Over the years Mary Lincoln and Elizabeth Keckley became more than just employer and employee, they developed a deep friendship and often relied upon each other for emotional support when times grew tough. After Mr. Lincoln’s assassination, Mary and her children leaned a great deal upon Elizabeth. Elizabeth was there for Mary Lincoln during the funeral of her husband, she was there for her to help pack the family’s belongings, and she was there to help them find a place to relocate to in Chicago. Elizabeth also did her best to help Mary adjust to her new circumstances and to help her to find a way to repay the debts she acquired while living as the First Lady and purchasing beyond her means. Even her husband hadn’t been aware of the extent of her debts before he was killed.

The author of this book clearly did a great deal of research on Elizabeth Keckley. When I started the book, I hadn’t realized that it was about a woman who truly existed and had even written her own memoir. This is a work of historical fiction told from Elizabeth’s point of view, but there is still a great deal of truth in the tale. I enjoyed reading it and would recommend it to anyone with an interest in the time period or who wondered what life was like for a free black woman who had been born a slave as compared to the lives of the other women around her.

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23 people found this helpful

J. Springer

J. Springer

4

I consider myself pretty well versed on the Civil War time period and ...

Reviewed in the United States on June 16, 2017

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Book review: "Mrs. Lincoln's Dressmaker" by Jennifer Chiaverini: This book was entertaining, enlightening and fascinating! The content is largely based off of a freed slave narrative by Elizabeth Keckley (dressmaker to Mrs. Lincoln and numerous other famous women such as Mrs. Davis, the wife of the president of the Confederate states of America). I consider myself pretty well versed on the Civil War time period and still learned a wealth of previously unknown facts. Here are 8 of my top favorites: 1. I previously thought that Delaware was the only slave holding state in the union...the District of Columbia (DC) was slave holding as well. This tidbit further proves so many of my beliefs about the TRUE causes of the Civil War! 2. The slave state of Missouri was a curious case, having voted to remain in the Union but not to supply men or weapons to either side. 3. There are several well documented cases of freed Black men who were passing for white that signed up to fight for the union and had to endure their comrades (fellow Yankee soldiers) constantly talking about the inferiority of the black race. 4. President Lincoln emphatically stated that his goal was to save the Union, and nothing else. “My paramount object in this struggle is to save the Union,” he wrote, “and is not either to save or to destroy slavery. If I could save the Union without freeing any slave I would do it, and if I could save it by freeing all the slaves I would do it; and if I could save it by freeing some and leaving others alone I would also do that. What I do about slavery, and the colored race, I do because I believe it helps to save the Union. 5. The proclamation called for the abolition of slavery only in states that were in rebellion as of January 1, 1863, so in theory, if a state agreed to return to the Union before that date, slavery would be permitted to continue there. The proclamation did nothing to free the enslaved people living within the loyal Union border states of Delaware, Kentucky, Maryland, and Missouri, as well as Tennessee and parts of Louisiana, Confederate territory that had come under Union control. 6. President Lincoln had pet goats at the White House that he adored! The First Lady was not overly fond of pets, and she could not understand why Mr. Lincoln took such delight in his goats. 7. In May 1875, Robert Lincoln had his mother declared insane and committed to an asylum in Batavia, Illinois. Elizabeth followed the heartbreaking story in the newspapers, stunned by reports that Mrs. Lincoln had tried to commit suicide by taking an overdose of laudanum. 8. And my personal favorite juicy and hilarious tidbit: Vice President Andrew Johnson was S***face wasted (drink) at President Lincoln's second inauguration.

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12 people found this helpful

WRB

WRB

4

Very informative read ...

Reviewed in the United States on February 4, 2013

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Mrs. Lincoln's Dressmaker is a very informative read for historical fiction fans with much detail about the Civil war. This is the story of Elizabeth Keckley, a former Negro slave, who purchased her freedom and her son's for twelve hundred dollars by using her skills as a seamstress. She was fortunate to be literate because it was illegal for slaves to read and write, but her former slave owners did not forbid their slaves to learn. Mrs. Keckley was a strong and modest woman who displayed so much compassion.

The story begins in 1860 and Abraham Lincoln has just been elected the sixteenth President of the United States. Mary Todd Lincoln, the new First Lady, has a fine taste for fashion and hires Elizabeth Keckley as her dressmaker and the story unfolds.

The Washington elite begin to snub Mrs. Lincoln and she becomes increasingly lonely. Elizabeth is very sympathetic to the First Lady and soon she becomes Mrs. Lincoln's confidante and her only true friend. Mary Todd Lincoln begins spending money with unrestrained delight by refurbishing the White House. As necessary as the purchases seem, there is a war going on and many soldiers are going without tents or blankets and it just doesn't seem right for the First Lady to be spending money on furnishings on the White House. She is determined to transform the White House into a showplace even though the congressional allowance would not stretch far enough to cover it all.

Meanwhile, Mrs. Keckley is becoming the best-known dressmaker in Washington becoming popular with all the Union women. The dressmaker has the utmost respect for the President. She has never known another man with such nobility of soul and greatness of heart, but she wonders why Mrs. Lincoln can not see these qualities in the President. He does not always receive the much needed affection from his wife. Also, Mrs. Keckley does not approve of all the spending and the debts Mrs. Lincoln is contracting, but she would never allow anyone to disparage Mrs. Lincoln in her presence --- she remained her best and kindest friend.

And the story continues through many tragedies, including the death of Willie, the son of the President and Mrs. Lincoln, and the assassination of the President. I recommend that you take time to read this book with many revealing insights about this period of history. You won't be disappointed.

One negative comment - I found the last few chapters to drag on and my interest waned a bit. I wanted to give it five stars, but for this reason I gave it four.

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4 people found this helpful

Susan

Susan

4

This is part history and part supposition about American politics and the brave players of history

Reviewed in the United States on May 15, 2019

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I'm not a huge fan of non-fiction and usually find texts about historical persons and eras to be quite boring. However this author has chosen to relate the tale of the American Civil War, as seen through the eyes of Mary Todd Lincoln and her seamstress, confidante and friend, Elizabeth Keckley, a real, freed slave during one of the most exciting and turbulent times of the United States.

The main character, Elizabeth, is an ex-slave that is well-educated and a professional woman in her own right. Through networking, in the mid-19th century in Washington, D. C., Mrs. Keckley, is introduced to the First Lady and wife of Abraham Lincoln. Using the settings of the White House; the war's battlefields; the mixing with the power brokers of that time; viewing the suffering of the soldiers, fleeing slaves, and families and communities torn asunder; plus the musings of the main characters, the reader sees a new and unique perspective about the Lincoln family and those within their sphere.

Over time, Mrs. Keckley prospers as an independent, professional freed black woman, an unusual life during those times. Not only is Elizabeth a confidant of Mrs. Lincoln, she also becomes a friend of the president, who both treat her with respect and admiration. These relationships remain, even after Lincoln is assassinated and Mary Lincoln decamps into her widowhood and the trials of those trying days.

As a true friend, Elizabeth stays by Mrs. Lincoln, sacrificing her own livelihood, friends, community in Washington, and a comfortable future. Eventually, the two women, both intelligent and strong-willed, play out the years following Lincoln's presidency, when new politics change the country forever, both good and bad.

This is a very interesting read, often fictionalized from true events and facts that the author has researched. But it is also a cautionary tale that suggests that If one were to compare today's American politics with those of the Civil War era, one would surmise that people come and go but the politics of societies rarely change.

In the end, Elizabeth does find respite and dignity that stem from her life's trials, since she has helped many others gain the skills and confidence to build their own lives full of respect, humility, and success.

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5 people found this helpful

Kindle Customer

Kindle Customer

4

"Scathing criticism of her newest...patron would be unrelenting."

Reviewed in the United States on January 15, 2013

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Within the Lincoln White House lived a bustling sub-culture belonging to his wife, Mary Todd Lincoln. A faithful proponent of Mrs. Lincoln, Elizabeth Keckley served as seamstress, groomer, and finally confidante. A former slave, Elizabeth had bought her own freedom and that of her son with her needle s,ills.

Coming in With the first gown the First Lady had ordered, Elizabeth comes into immediate line of fire. Mary is angry and feels the seamstress is late. It takes all of the circle of friends to calm the nervous outburst. Over the years, Elizabeth would witnes many outbursts. And she would play her own role in the events of her day.

From dressing the First Lady to "educating the President's wild locks, Elizabeth served a variety of functions. Having been the dressmaker for Jefferson Davis's wife, she was no stranger to DC politics, and had chosen her alliance with the North before her entry into the White House. The history is well documented and fascinating to watch from this perspective. I must admit a bit of predisposition after watching the movie, "Lincoln" in which Elizabeth plays a prominent, behind the scenes role. This book of course fleshes out her intent and experience. I also would admit that I enjoyed the details of the clothing and ornaments of the political wives at the time. Mary Todd had a fine eye for luxury in her gowns. She was criticized for it at times, and her tastes served another part of history.

The prose is flowing and easy to follow, while not being simplistic or sacrificing historical content. Of course, this is historical fiction, admittedly Being able to infer issues. Elizabeth wrote her own memoir, and remained a friend to Mrs. Lincoln after Lincoln's death., even though sometimes perhaps acting in error. I recommend your reading it.

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8 people found this helpful

Amazon Customer

Amazon Customer

3

OK - more interesting in the end.

Reviewed in the United States on May 8, 2014

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As others have said, it is somewhat of a dry read. I was very interested in Mrs. Lincoln's personality and the relationship between her and Mrs. Keckley, but something was lacking in the telling of this story. The book seemed to suggest that Mrs. Keckley's motives were always nothing but the best. I think at the end, with the clothes-for-sale scandal, one realizes that Mrs. Keckley was promoting her own interests as well. So let's not try to portray her as entirely self-sacrificing . It appears, however, that she was a successful woman in her time to be admired for her accomplishments. The story also shows that she couldn't entirely lift herself up out of poverty and discrimination as at the end she had a lot of financial struggles and diminishing successes. It would appear that so much time spent trying to sell Mrs. Lincolns clothes, and, thereby earn more income for herself, attributed to much of her downfall in terms of her success as a modiste.

Historical fiction is just that - historical fiction, so we never really know exactly what the true story is. But this was an interesting glimpse into the relationship and does make one wonder.

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2 people found this helpful